PRINCESS-CUT DIAMOND : The Sharp Square Diamond

Princess-cut diamond exhibits quite a different take on the most common pattern for diamonds. This square diamond is in fact a variety of the popular brilliant. What make the princess truly distinct are its sharp corners, not cropped or rounded.

Sharply Square Diamond

Created in 1981 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, the princess cut is a square pattern that makes full use of the square outline of the rough octahedral crystal, thus leading to minimal waste during cutting. Like other square diamonds, the princess is indeed truly efficient.

What chiefly distinguish the princess-cut diamond from the similarly square cushion-cut, however, are the corners. Unlike the cushion, the princess has sharply square corners.

Facets of this Square Diamond

Though classified under the brilliants,  the princess-cut diamond displays quite a distinct pattern. This square gem retains the eight-rayed star at the center of the round brilliant, but instead of blossoming into a flower-like pattern with the addition of rhombic facets, the facets develop into a large four-rayed star, with each ray touching a corner of the gem. A plus sign is also visible around the table of this square gem, while the facets beside the girdle resemble the long planes of the emerald cut.

The facets on the underside of this square gem are also quite different. There are no small cross facets bordering the girdle. The pavilion simply reproduces the four-rayed star right through to the center, and repeats the long facets on either side of each ray. The bottom point thus becomes the center of concentric four-rayed stars.

Variations of the Princess Cut

There are variations in the princess cut, particularly in the number of successive chevron facets making up the concentric stars on the underside. What groups all these variations among those of the brilliant cut is the direction of the facets, particularly on the underside. The pavilion of this square gem bears facets that are relatively vertical, extending from the girdle toward the bottom, as opposed to the horizontal facets of the emerald cut.

Though typically square, a princess-shaped gem may also be rectangle, though the latter is less attractive than the square diamond, whose symmetry allows for superior brightness more closely approaching that of the round brilliant.

Downside of the Princess Cut

The weakness of this square diamond lies in its sharp corners, which are liable to chip. Instead of a culet, the bottom also typically terminates in a point, which is likewise prone to fracture. Still, the jewel’s mounting can address these vulnerabilities. A sturdy setting that protects the corners, as well as the point below, preserves a princess-cut diamond from damage.

Popularity of the Princess-Cut Diamond

Despite its susceptibility to breaking, this square cut is rather popular. As an alternative to the brilliant, the princess-cut diamond are much sought after.

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