EMERALD-CUT DIAMOND : Popularity of the Rectangle Diamond

Emerald-cut diamond, a popularly rectangle diamond, is a step-cut gem. As the name suggests, the emerald cut was originally popular for the emerald. However, there is beauty in this shape that allowed emerald-cut diamonds to remain popular through the centuries.

Stepped Rectangle Diamond

Emerald cut is a variety of step cut. Also known as ‘trap cut,’ the step cut is a style formerly applied only to colored stones. With a depth shallower than the brilliant cut and a table broader than that of the latter, the step cut shows off the hue and luster of colored gems to great advantage. Yet, besides colored stones, cutters also applied this shape to white diamonds.

As viewed from the top, the step-cut diamond takes the shape of a polygon, particularly one that has four, six or eight sides. Hence, this cut may be square, a hexagon, or an octagon. Sometimes, the shape had twelve sides.

A step cut is not necessarily as wide as it is long. The gem may be longer in one direction. Thus, a step cut may be square, and at other times produce a rectangle diamond. Cutters may also crop the corners of a square gem. When they modified the rectangle diamond in this manner, the resulting shape is popularly known as the ’emerald-cut diamond.’

Emerald-Cut Diamond vs. the Brilliant

Like the brilliant-cut, the emerald-cut diamond evolved from its simple beginnings by acquiring more complex and symmetrical facets, until the cut developed into an elegant shape. The resulting design was especially suitable for colored stones, particularly the emerald, which thus popularly received this shape.

Again like the brilliant-cut, the emerald-cut diamond evidently evolved from the table cut. Thus, like both the table and the brilliant, this rectangle diamond has a broad table facet above the gem, a bezel beneath, the girdle at its widest part, and the pavilion below. In fact, the step cut in general replaced the table cut among the principal shapes for the precious stone. In the early 1800s, the step cut even went precisely by the name ‘table cut.’

Indeed, the emerald-cut diamond stemmed from the table-cut, including the latter’s modified, octagonal form called the ‘single cut.’ Where the table cut evolved into the brilliant through the introduction of triangular and rhombic facets, the same cut transformed into this step cut through the repetition of the long narrow facets of the bevel both above and below the girdle. Gradually growing shorter as they approach the table above and the culet at the bottom, these long facets resemble steps, hence the name of the genus, ‘step cut.’

Facets of this Rectangle Diamond

The diminishing succession of long concentric facets became the distinctive feature of the step-cut diamond, thus earning this shape the alternate name ‘graduated form.’ When one sees a stone that tapers toward the table in long step-like facets, and in the same manner slopes toward a point at the bottom, he found himself a step-faceted gem. When a square or rectangle diamond of this pattern exhibits cropped corners, such a gem popularly goes by the name ’emerald-cut diamond.’

As a result of the uniform long facets surrounding the surface of an emerald-cut diamond, its shape at every depth echoes that of its widest part. However, the number of facets and their proportions remain rather variable, not strictly standardized as opposed to those of the brilliant. The crown of this generally rectangle diamond typically had two rows of facets, but often had three. The step facets only slightly differ in the angle at which they incline toward the table, with the uppermost being the least steep. Concerning their breadth, the bevels may be equally wide, or the lower step facets may be wider in comparison to the topmost.

Though there may be as few as three horizontal facets below the girdle of an emerald-cut diamond, the lower portion scarcely had less than four or five rows of facets, none of which differed in breadth. Whereas deep-colored gemstones may have shallow pavilions to keep their colors from being too dark, faintly colored gems typically have deep undersides and thus have more rows of step facets beneath their girdles. The diamond in particular, being altogether transparent, must have a thicker pavilion.

Benefits of the Emerald-Cut Diamond

With typically cropped corners, an emerald-cut diamond is an eight-sided gem that exhibits short sides at the corners of a rather rectangular outline. Unlike the square corners of the princess cut, the cropped corners of the emerald cut are helpful in preventing fractures.

When applied to the diamond, the emerald cut does not necessarily come in a rectangular shape, but may also be square, simply distinguished from the carre cut by its truncated corners. The square shape follows the natural outline of the octahedral crystal, and therefore incurs minimal waste of rough material during cutting.

Consequently, this cut is less costly to both traders and buyers. Partly on this account, many prefer an emerald-cut diamond over the eminent brilliant. Those who like their gems to be less busy also find this step-cut diamond quite agreeable.

As in the case of the brilliant, the angle at which the facets beneath the girdle of an emerald-cut diamond slope toward the bottom is crucial to the cut’s effectiveness. As a rule, the step facets grow less and less steep as they approach the culet, which generally echoes the shape of the girdle. In a diamond especially, the step facets must slant at just the right angles to reflect the light back toward the crown. In this sense, the step cut is similar to the brilliant. Though not to the same extent, the step cut brings out the exquisite brilliance of the stone.

Popularity of the Rectangle Diamond

Of four principal cuts for diamonds in the early 1800s, Europeans considered the emerald cut to be the least beautiful, save only for the lasque. Cutters accordingly reserved this step cut for crystals of inferior quality, particularly those of trifling depth though of considerable breadth.

Still, though never as great as the brilliant, the popularity of the emerald-cut diamond endured. In the early 1900s, cutters even adopted this step cut for diamonds of especially superior quality, whereas the once popular rose cut faded away from use. Indeed, the emerald cut remains in favor even today.

Furthermore, in mixed cuts, lapidaries typically combined the step cut with the brilliant. Thus, gems often displayed the facets of the brilliant on their crowns, while their pavilions bore step facets. In fact, such was the popularity of the step cut that even the mixed cut later gave way to the former in its unadulterated form, particularly the emerald cut.

Most often, however, cutters applied the emerald cut not to the diamond, but to the emerald and other colored stones, including the ruby. When it comes to diamonds, this step cut does hold a unique charm. To this day, the emerald-cut diamond remains an important alternative to the brilliant.

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