Diamond » Diamond Colors » WHITE DIAMOND: From Unsightly Stone to Symbol of Light

WHITE DIAMOND: From Unsightly Stone to Symbol of Light

In a dark world deep within the earth’s mantle, immense pressure and heat transform black carbon into the brightest gemstone. This transparent gem goes by the name ‘white diamond.’ Follow the journey of the white diamond, from how it reached the surface of the earth, how it transformed the art of gem-cutting, to how it symbolized light and love among different cultures.

Brilliant-cut white diamond
Brilliant-cut diamond
From Técnicos em Sistemas de Energias Renováveis, CC BY-SA 4.0

Before the Arrival of the White Diamond

Before the discovery of white diamonds, other gemstones ruled the world of gems. The ancients particularly prized the colored gemstones, such as emerald, garnet, lapis lazuli and amethyst. It was these gems that often appeared as the focal point of royal jewelry, demonstrating wealth, status and prestige. Monarchs adorned themselves with intricate gemstone jewelry – including tiaras, necklaces, and brooches – featuring colored gemstones as centerpieces.

White diamond-studded diadem of Elizabeth Alekseevna
Diamond diadem of Empress Elizabeth Alekseevna

This changed when diamonds came. White diamonds abruptly became the favorite of kings, and replaced much of the gemstones on their regal jewelry. The unique qualities of diamonds – including their exceptional brilliance, hardness and rarity – resulted in their prominence.

White diamond in the rough
White diamond in the rough
From Rob Lavinsky, iRocks.com – CC-BY-SA-3.0

Yet it would take more time before diamonds could replace the rubies and sapphires of crowns, scepters and other royal regalia. The diamonds that initially reached Europe were invariably small, too small to make eye-catching centerpieces. These were not polished either, but left uncut and rough. This begs the question, when did large diamonds become available to Europeans? And how did jewelers manage to cut this invincibly hard substance into captivating, brilliant shapes?

An Indian king wearing an elaborate necklace of the precious stone
The Patiala Diamond Necklace on the Maharaja Yadavindra Singh of India, whence the first diamonds came

Origin of the White Diamond

Historically, diamonds came primarily from alluvial deposits, such as the riverbeds of India. Smaller diamonds commonly ended up here, and it was these small diamonds that initially made their way to Europe. Over time, as diamond-mining expanded and technology for extraction improved, larger diamonds came to light. Still, there remains the question, where did all these diamonds take shape before they washed up on the sands of rivers?

White diamond in the matrix
Rough diamond in the matrix

For billions of years, diamonds silently grew deep in the earth’s mantle, hidden from the world above. They developed under conditions of extremely high pressure and temperature, as though of literal hell in actual reality. Diamonds form when carbon atoms come together and bond in a specific arrangement. The greater part of this carbon comes from those that had existed before the presence of life on Earth. The combination of immense pressure, caused by the overlying rocks, and the high temperature generated by the Earth’s internal heat creates an environment suitable for diamond’s formation. Under these extreme conditions, carbon atoms rearrange and transform into a crystal, with layers of carbon atoms stacking upon each other to build up an entire diamond. The growth of these crystals is slow, with carbon crystallizing into diamonds over the course of millions of years.

Arrangement of atoms in the crystal
Arrangement of atoms in a diamond
From Cmglee, CC BY-SA 3.0

What brings these crystals to the earth’s surface are geological upheavals, particularly in the form of volcanic eruption. Movements in tectonic plates also propel deep-seated parts of the earth toward the surface, along with the white diamonds they shelter in their rocks.

Mining in Sierra Leone
Diamond-mining in Sierra Leone
From Mummane, CC BY-SA 4.0

In the case of India, the diamonds ended up in rivers. As rivers flowed through the region, they carried the diamonds downstream, and deposited them in riverbeds. Here, bathed in the light of day, the white diamonds quickly captured the attention of intrepid explorers and miners, who thus meticulously extracted these gems from the earth and eventually sent some of them to Europe.

Advantages of a White Diamond

Yet what exactly attracted people to the white diamond? Why did kings adorn their crowns and other regalia with these white gems? In fact, there are several advantages that contribute to the white diamond’s popularity.

Rough white diamond sparkling
Rough Star of Sierra Leone sparkling
From Z Jason, CC BY-SA 2.0

1. Brilliance and Sparkle

White diamonds possess a unique ability to reflect and refract light, resulting in their characteristic brilliance and sparkle. The way diamonds interact with light also creates a mesmerizing play of colors and a scintillating effect that catches the eye.

2. Durability and Hardness

Diamonds are the hardest natural gemstone on earth. They rank tenth on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness. This exceptional hardness makes white diamonds highly durable and resistant to scratching, thus ensuring they can withstand everyday wear and hence last for generations.

A very famous white diamond, the Regent
The very famous Regent Diamond

3. Versatility & Timeless Elegance

White diamonds are highly versatile. They complement both white metals like platinum and silver, as well as yellow and rose gold. Hence, they can match various metals and gemstones to create stunning jewelry designs, thus allowing for endless design possibilities.

White diamonds also have a classic and timeless beauty, never going out of style. Their colorlessness and brilliant sparkle make them suitable for any occasion, whether it be a formal event, everyday wear or an engagement ring.

4. Rarity and Exclusivity

Natural white diamonds are relatively rare compared to diamonds of other colors. The majority of diamonds naturally occur with some degree of color, making truly colorless diamonds scarce and highly sought after. The rarity of white diamonds adds to their desirability and value.

White diamond earrings of Marie Antoinette
Marie Antoinette’s diamond earrings
From Cliff, CC BY 2.0

5. Investment Value

White diamonds, especially those of high quality, can retain value, which can even appreciate over time. Durable, portable and highly sought after, they can serve as long-term investment. Hence, investing in a white diamond can provide both emotional and financial value.

Ring set with small white diamonds
Ring set with small diamonds
From sirtrentalot, CC BY 2.0

6. Wide Range of Sizes and Prices

White diamonds are available in a wide range of sizes and price points, offering options for various budgets and preferences. From smaller, more affordable diamonds to rare, larger diamonds, there is a white diamond to suit different needs and desires.

White diamond ring
White diamond ring
From Andrew Magill, CC BY 2.0

7. Symbol of Purity and Romance

White diamonds are often associated with purity, clarity and eternal beauty. Their colorlessness comes across as a representation of purity and perfection. White diamonds also often bear associations with love and commitment. This symbolism has made white diamonds a popular choice for engagement rings, symbolizing eternal love and the lasting commitment of a relationship. Indeed, white diamonds have a romantic connotation and carry sentimental value.

Unsightly White Diamond?

However, the diamonds that appeared out of the sands of rivers were not, right there and then, ready for jewelry. Diamonds are unattractive in the rough. Ancient scholars in fact described them as unsightly. This was because for a long time jewelers had no means to cut and polish diamonds. How could they transform an invincible stone, impervious to other substances, to a perfect gem?

Octahedral crystal
Octahedral diamond crystal
From Rob Lavinsky, iRocks.com – CC-BY-SA-3.0

The transformation of rough diamonds into sparkling gemstones involves the practice of diamond-cutting. Diamond-cutting is a precise and skilled craft that involves shaping the rough diamond into a gemstone of specific proportions and facets, which maximize its brilliance and sparkle. However, owing to the inherent hardness and durability of diamonds, ancient jewelers faced the challenge of transforming rough diamonds into beautifully cut gems. It would not be until the 14th century when a lapidary invented diamond-cutting, before which diamonds typically figured in jewelry in their rough state, or received minimal polish.

On this account, there were several disadvantages that limited the appeal and usability of white diamonds.

1. Unattractive Shape

Rough diamonds often have irregular shapes and uneven surfaces. They may appear as unremarkable pebbles, lacking the symmetrical and pleasing shapes that we associate with beautifully cut gemstones.

2. Difficulty in Setting

Rough diamonds presented challenges in jewelry settings. Their uneven surfaces and irregular shapes made it difficult to securely hold them in place within jewelry designs. This limited the possibilities of incorporating rough diamonds into wearable pieces.

3. Lower Perceived Value

The lack of a well-defined cut and polished appearance made rough diamonds less desirable and valuable compared to other gemstones that could more easily transform into attractive and well-faceted gems.

Necklace made of rough crystals
Necklace of rough diamonds
From W.carter, CC BY-SA 4.0

4. Lack of Brilliance

Yet the biggest disadvantage of white diamonds in the rough was their lack of brilliance and sparkle. Before the art of diamond-cutting came into practice, white diamonds did not possess the dazzling beauty and optical properties that we associate with well-cut diamonds today. With their irregular shapes and surfaces, rough diamonds failed to maximize their ability to reflect and refract light. Without precise cutting and polishing, diamonds lacked the facets and angles necessary to create the desired play of light and brilliance. As a consequence, they appeared dull, lacking the captivating sparkle characteristic of well-cut diamonds.

It is this lack of brilliance that primarily diminished the aesthetic appeal and perceived value of rough white diamonds. It made them less desirable for use in jewelry.

Gem-cutter working
Gem-cutter working on a diamond

From Dull to Brilliant White Diamond

Fortunately, the invention of diamond-cutting enabled the transformation of rough diamonds into beautifully cut gems. Through precise shaping and polishing, diamond cutters unlocked the inherent beauty of white diamonds, and maximized their brilliance, fire and scintillation. This advancement in diamond cutting revolutionized the industry, making diamonds highly sought after for their exceptional visual appeal and establishing them as one of the most coveted gemstones in the world.

The brilliant cut of white diamond
The round brilliant cut

Hence, as white diamonds emerge from the hands of craftsmen, they find their purpose as captivating adornments. At this time, there were even more reasons to love diamonds.

White diamond showing fire
White diamond showing fire
From James St. John, CC BY 2.0

Historical Significance

White diamonds played significant roles in historical events and royal traditions. They adorned the crowns, jewelry and regalia of monarchs throughout history, thus solidifying their association with power, wealth and prestige.

Queen Mary's Crown, featuring a large white diamond
Queen Mary’s Crown featuring white diamonds

Global Recognition

White diamonds have a globally recognized reputation for luxury and quality. They are associated with prestigious brands, renowned jewelers and iconic jewelry. This makes them highly desirable and sought after worldwide.

The Jacob white diamond
The Jacob Diamond
From Barun Ghosh, CC BY-SA 4.0

White Diamond As Symbol of light

When diamond-cutters successfully unveiled the remarkable brilliance of white diamonds, they became a symbol of light itself, along with the metaphorical meanings that went with it. From then on, white diamonds exhibited a remarkable ability to reflect and refract light, resulting in their brilliant sparkle. This quality has led to the association of white diamonds with illumination and enlightenment. They symbolize the radiant light that can illuminate the darkness, both literally and metaphorically. In a metaphorical sense, white diamonds come across as a source of light that brings joy, positivity and hope into one’s life.

Brilliant-cut gems of white diamond
Brilliant-cut diamonds
From TVZ Design, CC BY 2.0

White Diamond Soaring in Popularity

Given their unrivaled brilliance, diamonds became the object of lucrative business. Marketing campaigns and cultural influences propelled the popularity of diamonds to even greater heights. What businesses really pulled off in particular was marketing diamonds as a symbol of love and commitment.

Heart-shaped white diamond on an engagement ring
Heart-shaped white diamond on an engagement ring
From 1791Rings, CC BY-SA 3.0

Diamond companies successfully promoted the idea that diamonds are a timeless and enduring symbol of deep emotional connection and lifelong partnerships. Their marketing efforts focused on linking diamonds with significant milestones, such as engagements and weddings. Thus, diamond engagement rings became a widely accepted tradition, and diamonds became synonymous with love, romance and the unwavering commitment to a lifelong partnership. The message conveyed was that a diamond represents the strength, beauty and eternal nature of love. Hence, white diamonds hold a special significance in the realm of relationships and romance.

White-diamond engagement ring worn on a finger
Diamond engagement ring worn
From Jim Harper, CC BY-SA 2.5

Accordingly, white diamonds captured the hearts of those who seek to celebrate life’s most precious moments. They became cherished symbols of love, commitment and eternal beauty. From engagement rings, which pledge lifelong devotion, to heirloom pieces passed down through generations, these gems became witnesses to a multitude of tales, thus forever etching their presence in the annals of human history.

Round brilliant-cut white diamond
Round brilliant-cut diamond
From Author, CC BY-SA 4.0

White Diamond Forever

The story of the white diamond is a tale woven through time of a tumultuous journey, starting from its creation within the depths of the earth, and culminating in the lives it touches. This story is one of resilience, transformation and everlasting splendor. In this saga of beauty and rarity, the white diamond stands as a testament to the wonder of nature, bound to captivate and inspire all those who encounter its sparkling brilliance.

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